Last year a friend of mine did this on his Kymco S125 and explained to me how he did it.
After you remove the nose plastic, it is pretty simple to splice into the wires for power. You always want to make sure that your leads on the LEDs never touch and short out your system. I used really bright yellow LED bulbs that I got from a guy in
Since there isn’t really a bulb housing, I used a round file to make the hole big enough to push the bulb in and used silicon to hold it in place. Also think about using using rubber as well as a possible mount along with the silicone.
Remember you also have to include enough extra wire so when someone has to take off the nose to do something, there is no strain on the wiring.
I did the same on my 2007 B&W 150. A standard afermarket BA15s socket (like for a backup light) press fits perfectly into the reflector. You just need to drill thru the back of the molded plastic socket for the wires and connect it to the circuit for the running lights next to the headlight. I put regular 1156 backup lights (27watt) in the sockets and they make great illumination for going around city corners at night, since the headlight is fixed to the body instead of the handlebars. No glue, no silicone, no custom filing — just get sockets that have the rubber boot on the backside for weather resistance. I had to solder on a ground wire after drilling a tiny hole on the rear edge of the socket. All the wiring stays with the nose, so extra wire for nose-removal slack isn’t needed (I’m not sure how the wires on the S125 routes). Works great!!! Reasonably, could do the same for running/turn signals, just get a BA15d socket that takes a dual element 1157 bulb and run the wires. You’d just have to tap into the wires heading to the rear blinkers and add a disconnect for when you take the nose off.